Help required - Protect EVGA 1080 CLASSIFIED from Condensation

[nrpeyton]

Protecting 1080 CLASSY from Condensation

Hi guys,

-Few months ago I successfully persuaded EK to support the 1080 Classified with their older block. Many have taken advantage of this since :-)
See my post here: http://forum.kingpincooling.com/showthread.php?t=3938

I also asked k|ngp|n if we could get an updated 1080 Classy Voltage Tool; which he kindly helped with. :-)

I also discussed how I wanted to prolong my enjoyment of the hobby by beginning a gradual 'n00bs adventure into cooling'; beginning with a:
-Water Chiller
before moving onto:
-Subzero Water Chiller
then eventually more hazardous LN2 in the future.

My journey is currently at the Sub-zero Water Chiller phase.

Last night I finished a little mod to the electrics on my Water Chiller to bypass the thermostat; Chiller now runs regardless of water temp.

This should allow sub-zero :-)

She's the 'Hailea HC-500a' (AKA Ultra Titan 1500).
-790w cooling capacity
-Temps down to 3c possible at stock
-Lower (subzero) possible by modifying the chiller.

• Completed bypass to Chiller Thermostat last night.
  
• Completed researching a compatible sub-zero coolant.
  
• Last Step Researching insulation methods; but there are literally so many ideas!

Need to protect --->CPU + Full Cover GPU block (EVGA 1080 Classified fitted with EK 780TI block)

I'm looking for something that will be easy to remove.

Ease of removal is my no.1 priority. Most material I've found does not mention removal!

Wondering if anyone with more experience than me (whose maybe tried a few different techniques) could advise on this?

A million thanks :-)

If anyone is interested in my project give me a PM or even reply here and I'm happy to provide details or any assistance :-)

I quite enjoy discussing the topic too and discussing overclocking in general :-)

I was also a instrumental towards getting us EVGA 1080 Classy full-cover waterblock support;
and have since written a guide to even further improve temps by altering the thermal pad arrangement from stock.

Which I was awarded a ribbon for this research at EVGA.COM http://forums.evga.com/Must-Have-cha...-m2598540.aspx

Best regards, hoping someone has just a little time to give me a steer in the right direction with insulating 1080 Classy & Full cover block :-)



Nick Peyton


P.S.
~Ease of removal of insulation remains top priority :-)

How I modifed a Hailea Water Chiller for Sub-zero (-20 to -50 possible)

Front cover off

Do take care, to insulate the internal pipes and water tank. (my Armaflex insulation is in the post).


front panel & thermometer disconnected



First Attempt (brown wire)



What a donut; I never cut wire long enough



That's more like it (outside left, to outside right, blue wire) this bypasses thermostat; chiller now runs as soon as power is switched on; regardless of coolant temperature





Just need some advice on insulating my Classy now; with full cover-block, if anyone has a moment to help, please? :-)

[Johan45]

What have you done for tubing and around the CPU? I run chilled water on a bench table and use vaseline on the back of the socket thick gasket around the block etc. I think with a full WB you'll have to cover the whole card in LET or similar . That's a lot of are for condensate to build up.

[k|ngp|n]

Back in 2001 or so before I started using LN2, I used a dual phase change setup on the gpu and cpu. I should dig around for pics..LET was what I used and It ran perfect everyday for hours and hours with constant temps -45c ish on gpu.

I think in your situation LET would be perfect. Put two coats on the card starting between the vrm and gpu and go all the way to the end of he card (I/O side). Do this on front and back and you should be good.
Great work btw..

[nrpeyton]

Originally Posted by Johan45

What have you done for tubing and around the CPU? I run chilled water on a bench table and use vaseline on the back of the socket thick gasket around the block etc. I think with a full WB you'll have to cover the whole card in LET or similar . That's a lot of are for condensate to build up.

Originally Posted by k|ngp|n

Back in 2001 or so before I started using LN2, I used a dual phase change setup on the gpu and cpu. I should dig around for pics..LET was what I used and It ran perfect everyday for hours and hours with constant temps -45c ish on gpu.

I think in your situation LET would be perfect. Put two coats on the card starting between the vrm and gpu and go all the way to the end of he card (I/O side). Do this on front and back and you should be good.
Great work btw..

Insulating:



Spraying Liquid Electrical Tape on £800 GPU (1080 Classified) -- this bit was nerve wracking, lol (but it turned out well, the electrical tape hasn't affected temperatures on VRM and memory ;-) )


My little research into adding 4 extra (correctly sized) thermal pads really makes a difference now with more of the card getting contact with full-cover block.
It compensates for the increased heat caused by the Liquid Tape on VRM.





Insulating around CPU block:


Self adhesive Armaflex then sanded down to prevent 'contact' being affected.









Armaflex on tubing




Thick slab of Armaflex on bottom of block (to stop heat entering loop & prevent moisture dripping from the bottom of full-cover block).







Insulating chillers tank to help it get sub-zero



Completed chiller insulation:





Frost ;-)



Don't worry; I have since, insulated the top of the card.







EVGA 1080 CLASSIFIED - IDLE TEMPERATURE







Overclocking:


Rock-solid stable at 2265 MHZ core.
Semi-stable @ 2278 MHZ

Before, I was barely able to get over 2151.

Due to the full cover block the excellent temps are extending to memory, combined with the updated 1080 Classified voltage tool I'm getting to +925 memory overclock. (stress tested with OCCT).

I am aiming for 2303MHZ (core), but due to new environmentally friendly gases used in all new Water Chillers (R134a which only has a boiling point of -26c) this is as good as it gets.

I REALLY want to break through 2303 MHZ on my 1080.
Any advice?

The Classified voltage tool is doing great things for memory but I'm not sure it is agreeing with the Core. I don't even think its because PASCAL doesn't like it (because it should be accepting at least a few extra mv at these temps beyond 1.093v stock limit)?

I think it's got something to do with GPU BOOST 3.0 doesn't agree with the Classified Tool. Because people using the modified STRIX BIOS (which works with and alongside GPU Boost 3.0) are getting nice gains). -- Not nice by 980 standards but decent by Pascal standards :-)

k|ngp|n what do you think? Shouldn't my card at least, by now, be accepting a little boost in mv? For a small gain in MHZ on the core? (at least Something)? Do you think I need to get cooler (DICE/LN2) to use the updated 1080 Classy voltage tool, or is it conflicting with GPU Boost 3.0 & should actually be giving us something?

Load temp is approx. -2c - +2c.

Thank you :-)

P.S.
DICE / LN2 would be my next project anyway :-)
There is no way I'm stopping now. Enjoying this too much.
Eventually I can maybe begin competing on HWBOT by joining a Rookie Team over there :-)

[nrpeyton]

UPDATE FROM MY LAST POST ABOVE: /\

Hi guys,

Just ordered my new CPU POT from Kingpin.

Going to wait and grab the GPU pot next month when money is a bit better.

Think I may be having more luck now, sourcing a LN2 supplier in Scotland. (something is on the table at least).

Can't wait for it to arrive (very excited).

I'll be overclocking my AMD-FX 8350. This will be my first ever LN2/DICE experience :-)

P.S.

Reallllyyy hope the pot arrives in time for my holiday (from work) next week :-) (ordered last night from the U.K).

Nick

[Splave]

Nice pics and thread. 1080 scales mostly from cold not from volts

If you moved the unit to lower ambient temperature like a garage maybe you can get a little colder?

[dreamss]

i suggest u use norprene instead, way more durable, less pourous, its the best fir water loops