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  #31  
Old 04-04-2012, 10:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quitesufficient View Post
I have some questions. In this image



It is not that clear what is going on. I understand that you are cutting the VID 6 from the circuit(or vcc), then connecting it(VID 6)to ground, and shorting it to VID 7 on the controller side with the small wire. However to the left on the board it looks like there is another small copper wire. Is this wire the result of cutting the PCB and it is merely exposed or are you tying the old "O" ends together? Per my understanding 6 is connected to power and 7 is connected to ground so by connecting them you are closing the circuit? The clump of solder below the VID 7 plug is what is confusing me. Im not sure if something is soldered to here or this is just a leftover clump lying on the board.

Also by the VCC on the board there is a small blue, snaking wire (or at least it looks like one in the photos). Is this a wire you are running from the VCC to the component behind it?

Thank you for any info, I ask because I plan to duplicate your work.

red is wrong.
yellow is right.
blue wire is just a nylon strand - lol
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  #32  
Old 04-05-2012, 07:47 AM
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Disclaimer: I have not tried this; it's just what I gather from reading TiN's post & looking at the photos.

The copper you see next to VID 6 is an effect of TIN cutting the VID 6 trace to VCC. VID 7 is already to ground, so since he needed to have VID 6 see ground, he soldered the two pins together, which explains the clump of solder.

As Honda correctly mentioned, the blue 'wire' is not a wire at all. I don't even think that's as thick of a copper strand in a tiny wire.
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  #33  
Old 04-05-2012, 11:10 AM
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That copper line is exposed metal on PCB because I used small V-cutter. Not connected to anything. But VID 7 is connected to ground so I shorted VID6 and VID7 together to bring both to "0" but putting small piece of solder on both pins.

Blue shaking wire is just fabric remnants lol, too lazy to clean stuff while taking pics

Feel free to post your modification progress here, so people can learn more.
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  #34  
Old 04-06-2012, 08:12 AM
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2 GHz anyone? :P
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  #35  
Old 04-06-2012, 08:52 AM
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2ghz please
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  #36  
Old 04-06-2012, 01:29 PM
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To go for using EVGA EPOWER following the "Crazy LN2 overclockers part", needs also the first part of the guide or it is independent ?
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  #37  
Old 04-06-2012, 02:27 PM
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first part is independent

epower is easy. just cut the wire(red x on picture) and remove chokes then solder epower
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  #38  
Old 04-09-2012, 12:04 PM
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@TiN

What was the size of the tantalum caps? I need to order some.
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  #39  
Old 04-10-2012, 04:48 AM
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yo Tin is it the BIOS that is triggering the card to change its clocks up and down or is it the PWM? i was thinking after the current shunts were shorted the card wouldn't throttle back the clocks like it does by default

after ive done all the mods (minus epower) to a card, it still changes the gpu clock all over the place.. i set 1300 and sometimes get 1150 and sometimes get 1250 for example

Last edited by pro; 04-10-2012 at 04:50 AM.
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  #40  
Old 04-10-2012, 05:22 AM
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Overheating?
Post some graph logs from precision, hard to say without knowing what you are running there.
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